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TT 520 
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TT 520 
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TT 520 
B38 



c°»vi iS-MAKINC AND TAILORING 

MADE EASY. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1890, by 
A. E. BEARRIE, | 
In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 



A^^PI\|TrO \iii A. mTCr\ —we want both Ladies and Gentlemen in all parts 
^^^^"'^ * ^ WWA^Ill I Cl^s of the United States to represent our business. 

All mail should be addressed to A. E. BEARRIE, 1220 Olive St., St. Louis, Mo. 



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MANAGER. 




;^,.0T DRESS .„ 



1220 OLIVK STREET, 



ST. LOUIS, JVIO. 



COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS IN THE ART OF I 
CUTTING ALL KINDS OF GARMENTS. 





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Nixos-JoNEs Printing Co., 212 Pine i^treet, St. Louts, Mo. 



Xo THK Public. 



-- joe^- 




Wl'.UK are thousands and tlioiisands of 
(lollais nniiiially spcnl, in tliis country' 
for llio (iilling and niakiiiij; of gar- 
ments, llipreliy makinp; a great expense 
u|)on every household that shouUl not 
exist, but tlic expense, lime required 
to learn, and the intricacies of the 
systems of cutting heretofore in use, 
have placed it so far beyond tiie reacii 
of families tiial tiie kno\vle<lge, to be efficient in the 
art of cutting, lias been almost out of the question. 

As it costs many dollars to learn anything of it at 
all and months of time and studj'. 

Then it could not easily lie done; new calculations 
must be made for every different garment, and it ke|)t 
the parly who learned it in a constant study in order 
to cut witii any aceuracj' whatever. 

The art through these disadvantages has only been 
learned by those who wished to make the art of gar- 
ment cutting a profession. Ver}' few ladies outside 
of those making it a profession thoroughly understand 
garment cutting. In fact 1)ut very few know anytiiing 
of it at all. 

While the ladies are not to Itlame on account of the 
disadvantages they must go through in order to be 
enal)led to do cutting. 

Yet this should not be so. Evei'y lad}', young or 
old, should understand as well how to cut and make 
garments as she should all other domestic duties. 
She should understand as well how to cut herself a 
dress as she should know how to prepare a meal of 
victuals or any other duty allotted to woman, and yet 
we find but verj' few informed upon this most neces- 
sarj' part of her duties. Even if she should not wish 
to make the garments herself, she should at least know 
how they were cut and how tliey were made. 

If every lad}- understood the cutting and making of 
garments she could save more in her home every year 
than ui)on most any other duty of tlie household. 

Seeing this great necessity for some simple metiiod 
of garment cutting for to be used in the family, the 
inventor, after years of practical experience and study, 
finally produced "The I'erfect Dress Fitter," wiiich 
he feels assured will meet tliis great public necessity. 

His aim has been to make it so simple and yet so 
perfect, that any lady could with Itut very little in- 
struction be enabled to cut any article of wearing 
apparel worn by themselves or members of their 
families. 

And judging from the way the " Fitter" has been 
received wherever it has been placed before the pub- 
lic, he feels well satisfied that his plan is a success 
even beyond his own expectations. No lady has ever 

(1) 



used it that has not praised liolh its simplicity .nnd the 
|)erfeetness f)f its work. 

We arc in receipt daily of testiuionial letters fioin 
all parts of the country. We have never sold one 
that has not given jierfect satisfaclion. 

There are many systems of cutting in use, l)ul ail 
more or less imperfect in their work, and these cutting 
but very few g.arments, most of them, but one bascjue, 
and that in many cases only to the waist line. 

Our system covers tiie entire field of cutting. We 
cut not only one garment l)ut every garment worn by 
ladies, gentlemen and children. No matter what it is 
our system outs it. 

It is based upon the (inest scientific principles known, 
whicii ai'e used in all mechanical work, and therefore 
liasing our work upon llie only correct methods of 
measurements and calculatiojis which are used by all 
classes of irechanics we have been able to produce a 
correct scientific work. 

And it requires but a few moments for us to prove 
that what we saj' is true. 

We do not insist by any means that ever}' one shall 
learn our work, but there are a great many ladies idling 
away hour after hour of time whocoidd, if they knew 
how to cut and fit the garments for the family, save a 
great expense upon the household and turn their idle 
hours into pleasure and profit, and there is no reason 
wliy it should not be done when it can be accomi)li«lied 
so easily. 

We would like for every lady or gentleman who has 
an o(iportunity of seeing our work to have it fully ex- 
plained to them and thoroughly examine it in every 
particular. You will always find bur .agents ladies and 
gentlemen in every sense of the word. We employ no 
others and they will always be found willing to explain 
the work fully to you in ever}' way. And should you 
after a careful examination of our system, conclude 
to leai'n it, you will find our employes very eflficient 
teachers, as we never send one out who is not compe- 
tent in every way both to explain the work and teach 
it, though it rec|uires but very little teaching, as you 
will find l>y carefully examining it that it is so simple 
and the ilirections so plain for its use that any one can 
by first carefully reading the directions l)e enaiiled to 
cut any garment tliey may wish without any teaching 
whatever. 

All we ask is a fair square trial of our work, know- 
ing that if you will honestly investigate it that it will 
fully meet with your approval. 

Willi tli(-se few remarks we remain. 

Yours truly, 

A. E. BEARRIE & CO. 



\ M 



)h. 



TO APPLY THE FITTER. 



The first thing to be done is to take the Measures. 



THE MEASUREMENTS. 

We take five measiiivs, viz. : 

Chest. 

Waist. 

Length of Waist. 

Elbow. 

I^ength of Aiuii. 

TiiK Curst Measure, is taken tight 
ju.st above the bust and high up under the 
arms. 

The Waist Measure is taken straight 
around tlie waist as tight as tlie party 
wishos to wear tho (h'css you ai'e cutting 
for. 

The Length of Waist is taken from 
the center of l)ack at neck wlnere the collar 
should be attached to the dress straight 
down the back to the waist, being careful 



that the measure is even with the hips at 
the side. 

The Ei.row axi> Length of Arm is 
taken with arm hanging loosely at the side, 
commencing at the same }»oint as for length 
of waist measure, straight across to shouldei- 
point down the arm to elbow point and 
wrist joint. 

Cake must be used in taking measures. 

SPE(;iAL. 

All upper garments are laid ont by 
chest measure. The entire garment is laid 
off by rule coiTesponding with chest meas- 
ure, backs, front and sleeves. Accom- 
panying di'aft No. 1 will be found directions 
for applying special measures. Under 
each draft will be directions telling you 
what rule to use to l;iy the garment off by, 
etc. 



IN COMMENCING TO DRAFT. 



First make your base lines to work from 
by drawing your pencil around the outside 
of the squai'c. Then follow the directions 
For Applying the Rule, governing yourself 
by the special directions accompanying 
whatever diagram j-on are laying off. Next 
follow directions For Applying the Scroll 
to connect the points and form the di-aft. 
Next lay off your seams following the 



dii'ections On the Seams. When the gar- 
ment is all drafted follow yonr special 
directions for Changing the Size of Waist 
(if any change be necessary) ; when that is 
done your garment is completed. Then 
by reading Our Basting Directions care- 
fully the garment can be easily and properly 
put together. 



(2) 



HOW TO APPLY THE RULE. 



There aw lour distinct points or places 
wlicrc the end ot tin- I'nlc niiisl i»e [)laced 
and meusuix-nients niiide t'roni. 

THE FIRST 
Ts the to[) of the sidi' hiise line, where we 
coninience measuring- to get flie length of 
garments and the points to strike (he lines 
aci'oss from to get the width on. 

T[IE SECOND 

Is where we lay our rule on the cross lines 
to get the points for width of gai-nK'nts, 
which stai't from the side base line wheivver 
they occur on the diagram we are laying off. 



TIIK THIRD IS FROM THE 



V 



In making measurements with our rule, 
which is five s[)aces in length, we measure 
all points given on the diagram we are 
laying off. By first getting the points 
straight down the side base line until we 
reach the end of the I'ule. Then at the end 
of the rule or the 5th space we mark a V 
as shovyn upon the diagram. Then we 
move the rule down its full length, placing 
the end of the I'ule at the point of the V 
we have just marked and commence measur- 
ing from that point again, just the same as 
if we were measui'ing' from the starting- 
point. The 5V occurs on all lines where the 
rule is not long enough to reach the number 
we reipiire on the diagram, and by sim])ly 
marking- the V at the end and moving the 
rule down if on base line or out if On cross 
lines, we can get any number of spaces we 
lecpiire. 

The V always occurs on the diagram just 
as many time's as it is necessary to move 
the i-ule to get all the points required. 

Wherever you see tlu- DVon the diagram 
niai-k the V at the end of I'ule and move 
your rule down its full length and measure 
again from that point just the same as if 
the rule had not been moved from the 
starting- [)oint. 

THE FOURTH 

Place we commence measurin<>- from is the 



waist lini'. Length of waist vai-y on differ- 
ent persons of the same chest measure. 
And the only way the measure can be made 
correct is with the tape-line. 

THK SPECIAL DIRECTIONS 

Accomi)anying- Diagram 'No. 1, fii'st pat- 
tern in the book, fnlly explain this and tell 
you i)laiiily how to make the waist line 
correct. 

WHEN IT IS correctf<:d 
Place the end of the rule upon the corrected 
waist line and measure again from that 
point, in the same way that you have been 
instructed to measure from the base lines 
an<l the 5V- 

TO EXPLAIN THIS FULLY. 

On the backs of Diagram No. 1, first 
pattern in the book, we place the rule at 
the to]) on side base line and get the follow- 
ng points for length. First point is B, 
then IB, then 2, then 2F, then oB, then 
4E. Then we come to the 5V. Now just 
mark V at the end of rule and then move 
the rule down its full length, placing the 
end of the rule on the point of the V. 
Now mark points again same as you did 
above. Next point is 2A, which is waist- 
line, mark it and then follow the directions 
on changing waist line (if any change is 
necessary). And then place the end of 
the rule at the point whei-e the corrected 
waist line is marked (as explained in the 
special directions with first diagram), and 
commence measuring your points again. 
Next point is IF, next is 2, and next or 
last point is 2B. When all the points are 
marked on the l)ase line, strike the lines 
aci-oss whei-ever they occni- on the diagram 
and then take your rule and get all points 
upon the cross lines. When that is done 
take your scroll and apply it, connecting- 
the points, as directed in the directions for 
Api)lying- the Scroll. And then mark off 
your seams and your diagram is com[)leted. 

IN LAYINc; OFF THE SEAMS 

Be careful and follow directions for seams 
closely. 



(3) 



HOW TO APPLY THE SCROLL. 



The scroll bus a liirge and a sjiiall end. 
The hirye end is used in iiuikiiig- the eiirves 
on Ladies' and Gentlemen's garments, and 
tlie small end for making the eurves on 
Children's garments. 

We have two hands upon the scroll. And 
Ave also have hands upon om- diagrams to 
simplify its use. 

Whatever way the hand upon the dia- 
gram points, U't the hand ujjon the sci'oll 
point in the same dii'cction. If the curve 
is an inward ciu've tlie h;ind will be placed 
upon the outside of the line to be drawn, 
and in hiying the scroll on to connect the 
points and make the line you must also 
place it U()oii the outside of the ]ioints you 
ai'c connecting, being cai'cful th;it the hands 
on the diagi'am and the hand on the sci(dl 
point in the same dii'ection. If there is 



simply a: hand connect two points at one 
time. If the hand has a star upon the 
wrist connect three points. Wiien the 
curve to be made is an outward cui've, the 
hand will occur inside of the <li"ift, and in 
laying down the ciu've to foi'm the line 
yon must also have it inside of the points 
to be ct)nnectt'd and the hands on the scroll 
and on the <iiagram nmst be pointing in the 
same direction. 

SPECIAL CURVKS, 
such as Front neck Curve, Arms Eye 
Cui've, Darts, Front hem (Jui've, Side 
under arm on front and Side back curve are 
marked on the scroll so that it can be ap- 
[)licd with case. Wliert' lines occur with- 
out any hands (except it l)e the special 
curves just explained) they are sti'aight lines 
and must l)e connected with the scpiare. 



THE SEAMS. 



Seams arc of diCferent widths, some aiv 
marked with the rule and some are marked 
with the ta])e line, lint each diagram has 
the amount jjrinted upon it that is allowed 
for seams wherever seams ai'e (o be t;iken. 
All seams that are made with the rule are 
laid off when you ;uv lirst making the <lraft, 
excepting the shoulder seams, which ;ire all 
marked on the diagram telling you just 
what letter to measure to for width of 
seam. When all seams are marked off con- 



nect the points with the tools in the same 
mannei' that you did the outline, being 
careful to keep the seam the same width 
apart at all places. When drafts are all 
com[)lete<l and seams marked off, then fol- 
low diivctions foi' changing- size (»f waist 
(if any change is necessary). Forms of 
the same chest measure vary in size of 
waist same as in length of Avaist and can 
only be correctly nuide by the tape- 
line. 



(4) 



DIRECTIONS FOR BASTING. 



IX CKNTKi; r.ACK SKAM. 

Bc'^iii at waist liiu' and haste ii[). 

IX HASTIXU SIDE HACK SEAMS. 

Hold thr hacks to you, iiiakiii^- Ihr scaiiis 
coiMf out I'veii without clippiui^- ou tlie 
ends. It' lU'CTssai'T sdvteh the side hack 
tVoiM ahout two and our-hait' to tlu'ee iiiciics 
dowu I'ldni tile (op to make tiieui coiue out 
even. 

IN BASTING SIDE SEAMS. 

Haste tile left side seam first, and then 
l)in the right side seaiu up to the (op, 
beginning- at waist line, making it come out 
same as the left side seam, and then l)egin 
at top and haste down to waist line, hold- 
ing the back towards yon. 

IX SIDE UNDEIl A1!M SEAMS. 

Hold the side backs towai'ds yon, l)ast- 
ing same as for side back seams. 

IN UNDER ARM DARTS AND FKONT DARTS. 

Begin at waist line and baste up, after 
having the darts hasted togetlier, cut open 
through the centei'. 

IN HEM. 

Run a basting thread on hem line and 
leave ojjen to do fitting, pinning to fit the 
I'oi'm. 



IN ALE SEA:\IS I'.KI.OW WAIST. 



Begin at waist and baste down. 



IN SIIOII.DER SE.VMS. 

Begin at shouldei' p(»int and haste to neck 
on the left shoulder, stretching the front so 
that it will come out even with the hack 
piece. 

. l*in (lie right shoidder seam, stretching 
the I'roiit seam as for left shoulder, and then 
begin at neck hasting to shouliler point. 
Aftei' having done your fitting, all seams 
should hi' trinnned down to just what is 
needed for the whaleb(»nes. All seams 
should he pressed open with a hot ii'ou be- 
fore putting in whale bones. 



IN BASTING SLEEVES. 

Begin at the top and baste down to waist. 



IN PUTTING THE SLEEVES JN. 

Place the back seam at about one-half 
inch Ijelow the side from seam in arm's eye. 
Baste over the to[) of sleeve, holding the 
sleeve towai'ds you, sew in the right sleeve 
first, i)in the left sleeve, being careful that 
you get both sleeves in exactly alike. 

There should he a basting thread run 
around the to|) of (he nppei- sleeve jioitiou 
to make it full over the shoulder. 



BEFORE FITTING. 

Clip all seams at waist and for an inch 
above and below waist, making several 
cli])s. Be careful not to clip them too 
close. 



(5) 



LADIES' PLAIN BASQUE. 



FOR MEDIUM FIGURES. 




3A 



2 B-2-IF 



3B-2F - 2 



TO LAY OFF BACKS. 



Make base lines first. Then suppose we 
are cutting for a lady whose measures are : 

Chest 33. 

Waist 23. 

Length of "Wnist 15h'-2. 

Elbow 191/2. 

Length of Arm 29. 
Add one inch to last two measures amount 
required for seams, which makes the elbow 
measure 2OV2 and the length of arm 30 
inches. Take rule 33 whicli corresponds 
with chest measure and then follow direc- 
tions for applying the rule, marking all 
points down base line to point 2A inclus- 
ive which is waist line. Now take tape line 
and measure from the first point marked or 
the letter B down 15i/.i inches on base line 
the length of waist we want, and mark it, 
and then by measuring the difference be- 
tween point 2A (original waist line), and 
the waist line point marked with the tape 
line, we find it is necessary to make the 



waist V.i of an inch shorter than original 
waist line or point 2A which we marked 
with rule. 

Now shorten point 4E one-half as much 
as you did the waist line, or ^/^ of an inch. 

Now place the end of rule at the cor- 
rected waist line (accoi'ding to direc-tions 
on points to measni'e from), and mark the 
points for skirt. Now strike lines across 
from base line points wherever they occur 
on the diagram, and then get all points on 
them for width of garment. Then take 
scroll and connect points according to 
hands on draft following special directions 
on (Applying the Scroll). 

Then lay off all seams as they are 
marked on diagram inside of the lines just 
drawn and use scroll in tlie same maimer 
to coiniect your points for the seam lines. 
Kead carefully directions for seams before 
laying them off. 

Next is 



(6) 



LADIES' PLAIN BASQUE. 



FOR MKDIUM FIGURES. 



FRONT. 




2 A- IF 



IE- lA 



TO LAY OFF FRONT. 



Proceed in the same manner as for laying- darts A and B one-half as mneh or ■'•s of 



an inch. Then place 3'onr rule upon the 
corrected waist line and finish getting your 
points for length. Then strike the cross 
lilies and get all points for width on them. 
Then take the scroll and connect all points 



off hacks. When Avaist line point 2E is 

reacluid, mark it. And as out waist lines 

are made to he placed together, we must 

shorten tlu' waist on Front •V4 of an inch, 

same as we did on hacks, to make front 

come even again with waist line on backs, shown on diagram l)y following the direc- 

You do not measure down with tape-line as | tions for Applying the Scroll, excepting the 

you did on l)acks. Simply measure up '''4 points that form the large or under arm 

of an inch fiom waist line point 2K and | dart. Do not draw those lines until we 

mark it. Then shoiten points at to|) of I test size of waist. 

(7) 



TO TEST SIZE OF WAIST. 



There are two fronts and two each of the 
back pieces, so we have one-half of the 
pattern . 

Having hnt one-half of the pattern, to 
correct our size of waist (if any correction 
be necessary) we take one-half of the actual 
waist measure which with the waist meas- 
ure (23) we are drafting- to would be ll"/o 
inches. By measuring the goods across 
the pattern on waist line, leaving out all 
seams, hems and darts, we find it measures 
ll'V4 inches, which is too large, as we only 
want the measni-e to be llV> inches or one- 
fourth of an inch smaller. I*^ow, to make it 
one-fourth of an inch smaller we simply move 



I)oints 4D and E on waist line, which form 
the large or under arm dart, one-fourth of 
an inch apart. 

Move point E one-eightli of an inch or 
one-half the amount of tlie change and 
point 4D one-eighth of an inch, which makes 
one-fourth of an inch. By moving apart 
the two points one-half the amount of 
change required on each side, it keeps the 
garment in pi'opoition, wherein if it were all 
changed on one side it would throw the gar- 
ment all out of shape. Now draw your 
lines for inider arm dart and j^onr diagram 
is completed. 

^N'ext is 



UPPER SLEEVE. 
3F 




TO LAY OFF UPPER SLEEVE. 



Lay off sleeve same plan as on backs and 
front, marking all points down to the bot- 
tom of base line. Then to get proper 
length of sleeve measure, on back from 
seam line at top of neck at center of back 
to seam line point at shoulder point at 
arm's eye. We find the measure to be 7i/4 
inches. ISTow place the 7' j at the top of 
base line or top of sleeve and make a point 
at 2OV2 inches down on base line, Avhich is 
elbow measure, and then at oO, which is 
length of arm measure. Point E being- 
elbow point, we next measure the differ- 
ence between elbow point just marked and 
oi-iginal elbow point E and find it to be one- 



eighth of an inch. The original elbow 
point would be one-eighth of an inch too 
long, consequently we shorten the elbow 
point one-eighth of an incli. When elbow 
point is shortened we nnist also shorten 
point ID the same amount. Then when we 
come to length of arm by measuring the 
difference between point 30, mai-ked with 
tape line and ])oiut 4F, which is length of 
arm point marked with rule, we find the 
difference to be one-half of an inch. So 
we must shorten the liottom point one- 
half an inch. Whenever bottom ]ioint is 
shortened we nnist also shoi-ten point 3G 
the same amount. 
N"ext is 



(8) 



UNDER SLEEVE. 
2G 




TO LAY OFF UNDER SLEKVE." 



Proecc*! same as in layiiitj;- off Tipper tog-etlici' same as waist linos, point, r)V must 
sleeve. AVlicn all jxiints are marked down : also l)i' shorU'ni'd-one-eig'hth of an iiicdi, hot- 
base line, then shorten jioint E, which is I toni points.'JB andBG, leno-thof arm |)oints. 



elboAV point, one-eighth of an inch same ason 
upper sleeve. As eli)o\v points nuistcome 



must also Ite shortened one-half an inch 
same as they were on n[)i)er sleeve. 




3A-2G 



TO LAY OFF COLLAR. 



Lay off collar in the same manner yon di<l hacks and fronts, making- i( I he propei- 
length with tape line to fit the neck. 



(!') 



THE CHANGES. 



Two ladies of the same chest measiu'ciiu'iit may vary in size of waist, L. of waist, L. 
of arm, etc. 

We will suppose, for instance, the measures had heen : 

Chest ;«. 

Waist 24V2. " 

L. of Waist 17. 

Elbow 20. 

L. of Arm 30. 

By adding- the one inch for seams to last two measures it makes them 21 elbow and 
31 L. of arm. 

In that case we would have to lengthen waist line five-eighths of an inch in place of 
shortening it. Which is done in the same manner as to shorten it, only yon move your 
waist line j)oint down in ]ilace of up. If waist line is lengthened, you must also lengthen 
point IE one-half as much as you do waist line. 

When you come to front, yon must also lengthen the waist line the same amount as 
you do on backs and the top of darts one-half as much as you do waist line and always 
in the same direction. 

On size of w;tist, if tiie measure had i)een 2iK'->, we want the one-half of pattern to 
measure 121/4 or one-half inch longer, as one-half of the pattern did measure 11-V4 inches. 
To make the change move the two points 4D and K, one-half inch closer together, mov- 
ing each point in one-fourth of an inch, which would throw in one-half inch more goods 
at waist line, IIV4 original measure and one-half would be 12V4. The measure we want, 
twice 12v 4 would be 21:>/l', the waist measure we ai"e drafting to. 

If ell)ow measure had been 21 and the length of arm 31, it would have been neces- 
sary to lengthen elltow point three-eighths of an inch, and L. of arm one-half an inch. 
As original rule points would not have been long enough. 

Always remember in shortening or lengthening elbow jioint E, you nuist shorten 
or lengthen (as the case maybe) point ID the same amount and where point 4F bot- 
tom of sleeve is lengthened or shoi-tened you must always lengthen or shorten |)oint 3G 
the same amount. When you come to under sleeve i)ortion. lengthen or shorten, as the 
case may require, ell)ow point E and the r>V, and also ])oints3CT and 31) the same amount 
that you do the same points on uppei- sleeve, and in tiie same direction. 

Under each garment will be given the necessary measures for laying it off, all 
points that may require changes and all directions necessary. Read them carefully be- 
fore attempting to cut the garment. 

The garments do not generally need changing ; but in case they do, to fit them 
to tape measurement, we give all points on all garments that may have to be changed. 

DRAFTS 1 AND 2 

Are so designed that any one wishing to use a plain back and French bias front can 
use back and side, back of No. 1 and front of No. 2. Or if one wishes to reverse and 
use the backs of No. 2 and plain front of 'No. 1 they can do so. Any sleeve desired 
may be cut with any draft. 

THE SHADING OR FINK CROSS LINES 

Show just what amount of the diagram is made up into the garment, or in other words, 
represents the cloth. 

(10) 



LADIES' BASQUE, FRENCH BIAS. 



BACKS. 




28-2"^ 



7?\*E-4'^ 



lAFOB 



Taki' chust, waist, lciii;lh oi' waist, elbow, and U'lig-th of ai'iii. Use rule 
correspondiiiij;- with eliest measure. Measure dowu from letter B to i>-et lenglli of 
waist. If any chaug-e be necessary, 2 A being waist line [)oiut, lengthen or shorten it, 
as the case may re(iaire. Points 4:E and 4A must be changed one-half as nuieh us waist 
hne and in llie same diieetioii. 



UNDER ARM GORE. 




IF ?D 



Undei- arm gore is laid off by same rule. If waist on backs is lengthened or 
sht)rtened. Point 3G being waist line point, mns( be lengthened or shortened same 
amount. 

(11) 



LADIES' BASQUE FRENCH BIAS. 



FRONT. 




;c 2 B 



B A 2C 

WAiai 



3G 3B 



U.se f-aiiit: rule. If vvai.sl, lini>s liavo beeu leiinthi'iRMl or .sIkii'Iiik'iI, li'i]j;Uifii or slioilcu poiiil L'C, wliicli is wai.st line, 
.same amoiiiit as ou Ijaclis ami under .-irni gore and lop of darts A and li one-lialf as nuieli in the same direction. WLieii seau)s 
are all laid off test .size of waist, if eliange be necessary, move |ioiiit C on waist line on uutler arm gore, and |ioiut .J on 
waist line on front iie.Kt to under arm gore oue-lialf tlie amount of cliauge re(|uired, in tlie same manner that change was 
made ou Diagram No. 1 in under arm dart. If tlie waist needs to be larger the points are moved towards each other. If 
smaller, they are moved apart. 

LEG OF MUTTON SLEEVE. 



3n 




IF-IC^- F 



1G IB 



3Q 3« ■£. c /5\ 3D-3B' 

Use rule corresponding with chest measuri'. Point '1 is elbow line. If it be changed change point E same amount. 
If bottom poiut be changed change points IC — F — 3G and 3A. same amount and in the same directions. 

(12) 



LADIES' MORNING DRESSING WAIST. 



BACK. 




2B 



2A-1F 



Tiikc c-licst waist, L. waist, I'lhow and \j. orai-iii iiicasiii't's. link' con'ospondiiii; witii 
clR'st is iisrd. "2X oil back is waisi point. (JliaM^c to lit tape line inuasuicincnl . 
("lian<4C point 5\' oiK'-liaii' (iu' amount. 



FRONT. 




A/§\ 4A-3E 



lE-lft 



To lay off front use same ruk-. If waist is changed on back, change waist line 
[loint 2D same amount and top of (hirt A one-half as much the same direction. To 
get pro[)er size of waist change C and iC [)oints on under arm dart in or out (as the 

case may. require) to exact size of tape liiu' waist measiu'i'. 

(i;5) 



LADIES' MORNING DRESSING WAIST. 



GATHERED SLEEVE. 



UPPER SLEEVE. 




Use same rule, leiigtlieu or shorten, to tape measui'enieut ; point E is elbow point; 
IG must be changed same auiouut as elbow ami in same (lii'ection ; i)()int 5 is L. of arm 
point, and point 1 must be elianged same amount as [toint 5, if any change is made. 
Gather to iit notches between ])oints 2E and 2F on under sleeve. 



UNDER SLEEVE 
2E 2F 




3F 3 



To lay off under sleeve use same rule ; points C and 4F must be changed same 
amount as points E and IG on upper sleeve, and points o and oF must be changed same 

amount as points -i and 5. 

(14) 



LADIES' PLAIN BASOUE. 

BACKS. 




2B-2-tF 



1A 

Waist 



"/§^ 4-A-3E 3-20-JG 



1A 



Take chest, waist, L. of waist, ell)ow aiul leni>th of arm, measure down from 
point A to g'et leng'th of waist, lA, marked waist, is waist line point. Chaiigc to fit tnpe 
line measure. If waist is cli;ing-ed, ehang-e ]>oint 4A one-luiH' the ninoiuit. 



FRONT. 




2A-1E 



IE 

V/AIST 



^E-4D-3G-3D-2G 



To lay off fi-ont use same I'ule. If waist on back has been changed, chano-o waist 

line point IE same amount ;ind top of darts 4E and 4D one-half as much. If any 

ehang-e is necessary in'size of waist, regulate it at under arm dart, mrn ing points 4E 

and D, in or out, as the change may require. 

(15) 



LADIES' PLAIN BASQUE. 



GATHERED SLEEVE. 



UPPER SLEEVE. 




Use same rule. Point 4F is ell)ow mid point 1 is to be elianged same amount 
with it. (If change be made) oF is L. of arm point. If it is chnngcd, change 2G same 
amount. Gather to fit notches on luider sleeve between points 2D and 2E. 



UNDER SLEEVE. 
20 2E 



20 8>^ 




W^ 



Use same rule. If points 4F and 1 are changed on upper sleeve, change points 

4:D and 3G same amount, and 2E and 2 same amount as L. of arm measures 3F and 2G. 

(16) 



LADIES' BASQUE. 



FOR STOUT FKJUKES. 




2B-2-IF 



Take chest, waist, L. waist, elbow, L. of arm. Use rule corresponding with 
chest. Measure from point A to get L. of waist, change G waist linc' point to fit tape 
measurement and point 4 one-half as much. 



UNDER ARM GORE. 




ie-ic 



Usf same rule. If waist line was changed on hacks, change waist line point 2G 
same amount. 



FRONT. 




IC 

WAIST 



^4D-4C-3F 2?" 



ID 



Use same rule if waist lines have been changed on backs and under arm gore. 
Change waist Hne point IC same amount and [)()ints 4D and IC at top of darts one-half 
as nmch. If size of waist needs changing, let out or take, as the case may require, 
point 2Ct on under arm goi-e next to fi'ont and ])oint4E on front next to under arm gore. 
Change them same as change is made in under ai'm dart. 



3D 



UPPER SLEEVE. 

3E i^ 



3F 




Lay off by same rule;,5V is elbow. If changed, change point F same amount. 

3E is L. of arm point. If changed, change 2(t same amount. 

(18) 



UNDER SLEEVE. 
2G 




2G - 2B 



y^G-4C 



l-G 



Use same rule. If 5V and F have been changed on upper, change 4G and 40 
elijovv points same amount, and also 2G and 2B same as 8E and 2G on upper sleeve. 



(19; 



LADIES' TEA GOWN. 



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(20) 



LADIES' TEA GOWN. 



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(21) 



LADIES' TEA GOWN. 



UPPER SLEEVE. 




4E 3G 



Use same rule. D is elbow. If changed, change and ID same amount. 4E is 
L. of arm measure. If necessary to change, change 3Ct same amount. 



2G 2B 



UNDER SLEEVE, 
2E 




Lay off by same rule. Lengthen or shorten points 4D and SG same amount as D 
elbow point on upper sleeve, and 2G and 2B same amount as points 4E and 3G. 



(22) 



LADIES' SKIRT. 



FOR MEDIUM FIGURES. 
SIDE GORE. 



FRONT GORE. 




lA 




lenir^lfn.^PnTi'in'"''-, ,'{ '*'"-'" "='" '"■<•" '•-'""'ged on front gore, ch.anKc 

T y^hi"v ,"^ """.'-^ "'"'l'' »"'«'">' ""'1 5V onohalf .as much. *" 

aver'iBu ronns ' ""' ""■"'«'" >^'«™ "I" fc'""il' a'-out 40 laches wide tor 

(23) 



and length ot skirt. Use rule corrcsi)ond- 
measure Take L. of skirt measure In front 



Take waisi 

,',',','rf lT,',l';,il™'*' "!p"'""= ia^e 1.. oi sKirt measure In froii 
and lengthen or shorten, as the case may reoulrc. Kront core 
to tape l.ne measurement bottom point lli Is length point 
hal aTmuil "^*' '"""" ' """" "'""""' "'"' •'°"'' *<= on« 



LADIES' SKIRT. 



FOR STOUT FIGURES. 



SIDE GORE. 



u. _.4M ^ .f» '° 



FRONT GORE. 





Use rule con-esponding- with waist measure. Follow the same rule as in cutting- 
No. 7 skirt. Take L. of skirt measure same way and if changes are necessary they are 
made exactly the same as on No. 7. 

(24) 



LADIES' SKIRT YOKE. 



48 




TE «^ F-C/^\4E 



2 C - t D - 1 /sVJ. D- 4-3E** 2 C lA 



Take waist measure and use rule corresponding therewith. It can be cnt as deep as 
one wishes. 



(25) 



FULL WAIST FOR LADIES OR MISSES. 



BACK. 




Take chest, waist, L. of waist, el))ow and L. of arm, measure down from A and 
regulate 2B waist ])oint to tape measurement. 




2P»ac 

wamt 

To lay off front use same rule. If waist has been changed on back, change same 
amount on front. 

Cut waistband, which is a straight piece of goods, about two inches wide to exact 

waist measure and gather fronts between points IG and 3C and backs between points 

2A and 3G, to fit waistband. 

(26) 



FULL WAIST FOR LADIES OR MISSES. 



COLLAR. 




3E-3C 2B IB 

Lay off collar by same rule. Reg-ulate size of neck by tape line. 



UPPER SLEEVE. 



<VE 




Use same rule. Measure down from E point where the X is for elboAv and L. of 
arm measures. G is elbow point. If necessary to change, change IF same amount. If 
point B, L. of arm, has to be changed, change -IB point same amount. Gathei- around 
tttp of sleeve from point C on cross line at point 2 to point 4A on cross line at point 
IB. 

UNDER SLEEVE. 



2E 




3e . 2G /S\ 4.0 '20 1A.1 

To lay off under sleeve use same rule. If elbow has Iieen changed on upper sleeve 
change 4D and 5V same amount, and \j. of ann lioints ',\V] and 2(J same amount as L. 

of arm points on upper sleeve. 

(27) 



MISSES' BASQUE. 



OPEN^ IN FRONT. 

BACKS. 







2B-2-1F 



38- 2Q • 2A IC 



Take chest, waist, L. of waist, elbow and length of arm. Measure fi'om B to get 
ength of waist, change 2C waist line point to fit, and 4E point one-half the amount. 



FRONT. 




2A II 



Use same rule. If waist has been changed on back, change 2F waist line point 
same amount and B top of dart point one-half the amount. Regulate size of waist at 
under arm dai-t, same as othei' basques. 

(28) 



MISSES' BASQUE. 



UPPER SLEEVE. 




Use same rule. F is elbow point. If changed, change IE same amount. 5V is 
L. of arm point. If changed, change 4A same amount. 



UNDER SLEEVE. 
3 




4A 3D 



Use same rule. If elbow points and length of arm points have been changed on 

upper sleeve, change them same amount on under sleeve. 

(29) 



2 1F-1D 



MISSES' BASQUE. 



OPEN IN BACK. 



BACKS. 



4G 




2A 

WAIST 



3 20 IE 1 



Take chest, waist, L. of waist, elbow and length of arm. Measure from B to test 
length of waist. 2A is waist line. Change to fit. If changed, change 4B one- 
half the amount. 



FRONT. 




3B 20 \E 



Use same rule. If waist has been changed on back, change waist line point 2A 

same amount. Top of dart point 5V one-half as much. Regulate size of waist at 

under arm dart same as in other basques. 

(30) 



MISSES' BASQUE. 



UPPER SLEEVE. 

3E 3t 



«%- 



3F 




Lay off by same rule ; regulate elbow and L. of arm measures same as on other 
sleeves. 4F is elbow point, 3D L, of arm. Change 2F same amount as 3D. 



UNDER SLEEVE. 
2G 




20 



Lay off by same rule. If changes have been made on upper sleeve, change 

elbow point iA and L. of arm points 2F and 2A same amount. 

(31) 



CHILD'S WAIST. 



BACK. 




G-F IE 

WAIST 



G B 



Take chest, waist, L. of waist, elbow and L. of arm. Measure from B for 
length of waist, change IE waist line point to fit tape measiii'ement. 



FRONT. 




G-F 2A 

WAlsn 



Use same rule. If waist has been changed, change 2A waist line point same 



amount. 



(32) 



CHILD'S APRON. 



BACK. 




Take cbest L. ol waist aud full kusth iu the back, use rule correspoucling with chest. Regulate waist by .nea-ur- 
icK down from poiut C, and full length by measuring down from point C. Change waist line point 2D to tape line meas- 
urement and point 3E to full length measurement. If point 3E is changed, change 2F the same amount. 

(33) 



CHILD'S APRON. 



FRONT. 




To lay off front use same i-vile. 
waist line point same amount 
and 2C same amount. 



If waist has been 



changed on back change 2D 



If length points have been changed on back, change 3E 

(34) 



CHILD'S APRON 



UPPER SLEEVE. 
3G 




4A 3C 



list' saiuc rule. 5V is elbow. Change to fit tapf measureiiiciit if necessary and 
Itiii^tli of arm point AA to L. of arm tape measurement. Change 3C point same amount. 



UNDER SLEEVE. 
3B 




3C 2E /sX 4B G 

Use same rule and make changes as directed on other sleeves. 4B is elbow and oC 
and 2E L. of arm points. 




40 



Use same rule. Regulate to fit size of neck by tape line. 

(35) 



LADIES' CHEMISE. 



BACK. 



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(36) 



LADIES' CHEMISE. 



FRONT. 



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(37) 







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(38) 



FRONT. 




LADIES' MOTHER HUBBARD NIGHT DRESS. 



SLEEVE. 




3A-2C-2A /Q\ 4C 1G-1E-1B-G 

Use same riik-. Gather sleeves at points marked gather. -iC is elbow. Change 

to fit. Make lengtii whatever yon desire. If 3'on change point HA, change 2C and 2A 

the same amount. 

YOKE. 




-^nfe«^, 1 



3B-3 ID 

Lay off by same rule. Fit to size of neck with tape. 

(40) 



LADIES' DRAWERS. 




Take waist and length desired. Use rule corresponding with waist measure. If 
yoke is used, cut off two and one-half inches from top of pattern. Cut on the outside 
line for l)acks and then turn away the goods and cut on the inside line for fronts. 

YOKE. 




4F 3-28 E A'^E - 3D 

Lay off hy same rule. 
(41) 



1G 



MISSES' DRAWERS. 




Take waist and lengtli desired. Follow same rule as lor No. 17. Make a band 

exact size of waist and g-athei- goods into it. Cut by outside line for backs and inside 

line for fronts. 

(42) 



GENTS' SACK COAT. 



BACK 




Take chest, L. of waist, full length in back, elbow and length of arm. In measuring 
foi- L. of arm, measui-e down to knuckle joint. Measure from A and make IF waist to 
fit tape measurement and point 4E to full length measurement. 



FRONT. 




4G-40-4 



WAIBT 



Use same rule. If changes have been made on back, make siimc cluinges on front. 
If length point 4G has to be changed, cbangv points 41) — 4 and iJA same amount. 

(43) 



GENTS' SACK COAT. 



UPPER SLEEVE. 
3F 




\^2A 



5-4C G /5\ 3 - 2A IB - e 

Use same rule. Regulate length same as on other sleeves. 



UNDER SLEEVE. 




4D-4 O /5\ 2E 1E-1C-G 

Use same i-ule. If any changes are made on upper sleeve, make same changes on 
under sleeve. 




3-2F-28 



Lay off by same rule. Fit to neck by tape measure. 

(44) 



GENTS' VEST. 



BACK. 




Iir -.1A ID 

WAIST 



Take chest and length of waist ; regulate length of waist with tape. 




2E - 2-1D 



C»2D 

WAIST 



G - 8/5\ 4.E.4A 



IC-IA 



Use sanu- rulo. If waist lias been changed on back change waist on front same 

amount. 

(45) 



GENTS' PANTS. 



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(40) 



GENTS' PANTS. 



FRONT. 





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BACK 



UPPER SLEEVE. 




Use same rule. Test length 
same as on other sleeves. 




D 'o 



(48) 



4A — 3A - 2C 1A 

Use same rule. 



UNDER SLEEVE. 



FRONT. 




Use same rale. Make 
changes according to up- 
per sleeve. 



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GENTS' AND BOYS' DRAWERS. 




(50) 



WAIST BAND. 




1B-1-F - B 



TO LAY OFF DRAWERS. 

Take hip measure and in seam measure. Use rule corresponding with hip measure. 
Take length measure on in seam from Fork to Ankle. To test length measure from 
point B down change bottom point 2C to tape measurement and knee line at F point 
half the amount. If waist is to be made longer let out point E on cross line IC. If 
smaller take up goods in Dart half the amount on each side. Shorten or lengthen the 
waist band as is required at point 2D to fit the tape measuiement for waist. 



^51) 



GENTS' NIGHT SHIRT. 



BACK. 



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FRONT. 



SLEEVE. 





Lay off Ijy same rule. Add 
one inch to L. of arm measure 
(which is taken wrist joint), for 
making up ; E. is elbow point. 



NECK BAND. 




3G«3F»3B 1C 

Lay off by same rule. Xt-ek 
band should be 2 inches longer 
than measure to allow for mak- 
ing up. 



(53) 



GENTS' AND BOYS' SACK SHIRT. 



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Use same rule. 
(54) 



G-E-C 



GENTS' AND BOYS' SACK SHIRTS. 



FRONT. 




Lay off by same rule. 
BOSOM. 




Lay off by same rule. 
(55) 



GENTS' AND BOYS' YOKE SHIRT. 



BACK. 




Q-C/5\4D 3E 



IF 



A ^c 



3B - 20 



B 



Take chest, L. waist, L. of ai-m, neck and i'lill k'liotli in hack; use rale corre- 
sponding- with chest measure. It is laid off just the same wa}- as Nos. 24 and 25. 
Gather the goods to fit the yoke. 



FRONT.' 




GENTS' AND BOYS' YOKE SHIRT. 



3B-3A 



SLEEVE. 




Use same rule. 




2F 
Use same rule. 



F-D-*\ 



COLLAR. 



C -«■* 






aA«3 IE - 1 



Use same rule. 



(57) 



YOKE. 




3F'3e 2D IC-G 

Use same rule. 



BOYS' SACK COAT. 




2A 



I^o. 27 Boys' Sack Coat is laid off by the following measures : Chest, L. of waist, 
full length in back, elbow and length of arms to knuckle joint; measure down from B 
for length of waist and full length. Shorten or lengthen IGr waist point to fit, and 
full length 4 to fit tape measurement. 



FRONT. 




lF-10 



2 

WAIST 



C/^\VF.^C'4.3F.3B 



IC'IB-lA 



Lay off b}^ same rule. Make changes same as on back, if any. Cut off one-half 

inch on left front. 

(58) 



BOYS' SACK COAT. 

UPPER SLEEVE. 
4 




^O'^SQ C/Q\ 2F-1G-1B-D 

Lay off by same rule, i-egulate leno-th same as other sleeves. 



4A-3J> 



UNDER SLEEVE. 
3C 



3 A .ca 




2C - ID/IC-G 



Lay off by same rule. If any changes are made on upper sleeve, make same 



changes on under sleeve. 




* -3C 2B 1 

Lay off by same rule, test to tape line measurement for size. 

(59) 



BOYS' VEST. 



BACK. 




WAiax 



Take chest, L. of waist and full length; use rule corresponding with chest, 
regulate length of waist and full length same as on Gents' Vest. 



FRONT. 




2a-1G-1B 



B-3 

V/AlST 



F-D /5\4-D 3C 1( 



Lay off by same rule, follow same directions as for Gents' Vest. Cut off half 
inch on left front. 

(60) 



BOYS' WAIST. 




1E.1D 

WAIST 



To lay off boys' waist, take chest, L. of waist, elbow and length of arm. Locate 
waist length from point B. If ID waist be changed, change IE same amount. Make 
same change on front. 



FRONT. 




2E-2C 

WAIST 



Lay off by same rule. Waist band is a straight piece of goods. Gather the 

sfoods into waist band. 

^ (61) 



UPPER SLEEVE. 




2F- 2A 



A 4c 



IG - 1 



Lay off by same rule. Regulate length same as on other sleeves. 




Lay off by same rule, regulating according to upper sleeve. 

(62) 



BOYS' PANTS. 



BACK. 




1E-1C 



1 E F-D-C 



To lay off pants, take hip, waist, L. of knee and full length measm-e. Use rule 
corresponding with hip measure and make same changes (if any changes are necessary) 
same as in gents' pants. 3A point is knee line and IE is full length point. 



FRONT. 




^~1^ 



4-3E-3A 



Lay off by same rule. If any changes be made on back make same changes on 
front. To make waist larger let out point F on top one-half the amount ; if to make 

smaller change in dart on back. 

(63) 



LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS 



014 061 876 7 




3E*3B'3 



Lay off by same rule. Waist band is a straight piece of goods about IV2 inches wide. 



(64) 



I 



r- 



TT 520 
.B3Q 
Copy 1 



^ 



V 






LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



014 061 876 7 



place our system of Fitting befcl 



nents for ^ood workers. 



xier rare 



I 



Those who are out of employment or otlicis wishing to change 



their business will find our work a very pleasant, easy and profitable 
business. 



WRITE FOR TERMS. 



Lc- 



/2 inc. js wide. 



OFFICE, 



1220 OLIYE STREET, 

ST. LOUIS, MO. 



\ 



TT 520 
.B38 



^ Copy 1 






/ 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 1 



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014 061 876 7 




Hollinger Corp. 

pH8.5 



